From Chole Bhature to Matra Kulcha to piping hot kachoris and khurchan, old Delhi (or Purani Dilli) is a treasure trove of flavour, recipes and tradition.
I’ve been visiting Chandni Chowk for over a decade now. I was quite young when I first got a taste of the classic Purani Dilli ka khaana, and the flavours today are exactly as I remember it from years ago.
Old Delhi and its vibrant food culture
Vegetarian street food in old Delhi goes beyond the famed Paranthe Wali Gali. The street food there is a vibe, and my love affair with it began the day I first stepped into Chawri Bazaar to sample these local delicacies. I remember it was a Dussehra evening, and I tagged along behind my parents and their friends. I was eager to sample the array of food on display, while the background buzzed with chatter and distant sounds of Ravana effigies being burnt across the area.
This was going to be my first time sampling kuliya, a variety of chaat made with hollowed out fruit and veg (think cucumbers, boiled potatoes, sweet potatoes and even tomato), and stuffed with a mixture of boiled chana, salt, kala masala (a super-spicy black chaat masala known for its deep, toasty and earthy flavour), and a few other ingredients, and garnished with ginger slivers, pomegranate seeds and a squeeze of lemon. Never had I imagined basic salad ingredients to taste so heavenly, and I was enamoured.
That evening was also the first time I sampled Kalmi vada – a super crunchy vada made with chana, which is mixed with boiled potatoes, kachalu (taro), fresh dahi and chutneys, and topped with fine sev. If I was in heaven after the Kuliya, then Kalmi Vada transported me into another world (and yes, I still remember the feeling of sampling that dish for the first time).
Chole Bhature, Matra Kulcha and all things nice in Old Delhi
Since my first visit, there are a few classics I always go back to, when it comes to vegetarian street food in Purani Dilli. My absolute must-have is Kanwarji’s Chole Bhature, paired with a glass of fresh, cold lassi! The soft, pillowy bhaturas and their special chole recipe is to die for, and no guest I’ve taken there has ever had a single complaint about the flavours – it’s simply that good!
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Another Delhi classic is the Matra Kulcha. Across the city, you can spot vendors with huge golden-hued pateelas, in which they cook the spicy white pea curry. This is topped with the special kala masala, raw onions and lemon juice and paired with flat kulchas that have a distinct, sour flavour (unlike the packaged kulchas you get across Delhi grocery stores and bakeries). My favourite kulcha, however, is by Ayush Ji Chole Wale in old Delhi. So much so that he now recognises my mother and I by face!
When it comes to classics, one cannot forget JB Kachori Wala, famed for his piping hot kachoris topped with boiled potato sabzi and an extremely hot kachalu chutney. Pro tip: always get the chutney on the side, even if you have a high tolerance for spice! However, my one of my favourite dishes to sample time and again is Khurchan – a sweet, layered treat made with milk skin and sugar and served chilled.
The only thing better, when it comes to desserts, is Kuremal’s Kulfi. The century-old shop is the brain behind those viral stuffed mango (and now, other fruit) kulfis. My favourite is the humble malai kulfi, which literally tastes like milk cream! Some other flavours I love, and often get packed for home, include water-based ones like aam panna, sugarcane and phalsa (a local berry), and creamy ones like paan and coconut.
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What makes old Delhi food stand apart for me is the heritage it speaks of. The recipes are not new – they have been passed down generations, just like the shops that serve them, and their simple flavours pack a punch. The experience is enhanced by the constant chatter and all the warmth that old Delhi locals exude, making their food taste like a million bucks.
(All images credit: Anushka Goel)
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